With the recent closure of Spencer Brewing, America’s only officially recognized Trappist® brewery, many have come back to the question – What is a Trappist brewery, and is the designation important?
Before we jump straight into the answer, let’s look at some background information.
Who are the trappists?
Quick history dump:
The Trappists are a reformed Roman Catholic monastic order whose traditional roots spread back to Saint Benedict of Nursia.
The original monastic order spawned by Saint Benedict’s teachings, called the Cistercian Order, was founded in 1048; however, by the mid-seventeenth century Armand-Jean de Rancé, the Abbot of La Trappe, brought about a reformed movement through his writing. This reformed movement, which focused on a simpler lifestyle, became known as the Trappists.
To this day Trappists subscribe to a strict set of rules including three criteria for any product they make to be considered an Authentic Trappist Product (ATP):
- All products must be made within the immediate surroundings of the abbey;
- Production must be carried out under the supervision of the monks or nuns;
- Profits should be intended for the needs of the monastic community, for purposes of solidarity within the Trappist Order, or for development projects and charitable works.
Now that we’re up to date on who the Trappists are, what’s their brewing scene look like?
Trappist breweries
Although there are over 2100 monks and 1800 nuns worldwide, only thirteen abbeys produce beer – Achel, La Trappe, Chimay, Rochefort, Westmalle, Westvleteren, Zundert, Stift Engelszell, Mont des Cats, Cardeña, Mount St. Bernard, Orval, and Tre Fontane.
While none of these breweries are limited to specific types of beer, you’re likely to find three core styles in every lineup – Dubble, Tripel, and Quadruple. If you struggle with keeping these styles straight, you’re far from the only one. Here’s a quick rundown*:
- Dubbel – This is a rich, malty, amber beer with dark fruity esters and hints of spicy phenols. It ranges from 6-7.6% ABV and tastes subtly sweet due to its restrained bitterness.
- Tripel – First popularized by Westmalle in the 1930s, this is a strong pale beer with prominent phenolic spiciness. Although it ranges from 7.5-9.5% ABV, the alcohol is well hidden in a galaxy of balanced flavors. A close cousin of this beer is the Belgian Golden Strong, which typically is sweeter and less spice-forward.
- Quadruple – Also known as a Belgian Dark Strong Ale, this is often viewed as the big brother of the Dubbel. Like the previous two, it masks its 8-10% ABV behind a balanced bouquet of flavors, and it feels decadent to drink without feeling heavy or aggressive.
A large part of what makes these styles so appealing is their phenomenal ability to pair with the gamut of foods. Each is complex and robust without being overbearing – allowing for pairing experts to elevate flavors and create incredible experiences.
Why does it matter?
Now that we have an understanding of the Trappist story and distinct styles, let’s break down why the designation is important and still has weight:
1) It carries history
Although brewing is relatively new at a couple of Trappist monasteries (e.x. Mount St. Bernard opened their brewery in 2018), many of the current brewery iterations date back to the early-1900s and even the mid-1800s.
That sort of longevity is a testament to the monks’ dedication to their craft and mission. While trendy breweries will continue to pop up and excite new waves of beer drinkers, the Trappist brewing tradition doesn’t seem to be leaving anytime soon.
Despite that resiliency, Trappist breweries aren’t immune to difficulties (as we’ve seen recently). In the case of Spencer and its closure, the Brewery’s director laid out why their operation came to an end:
“Even though the story of a Trappist brewery coming on the scene was quite big news at the time, the story started being repeated all over the country in other ways. . . . We became just another sort of flavor in this hugely expanding and ever changing world.”
William Dingwall
This, I believe, is a clear picture of why Trappist beer is still respected, yet why it may not be the most welcoming to new participants.
While Spencer put forth a valiant effort, their lack of individual brewing longevity put them on the same playing field as other commercial New England breweries (competing with Tree House and Trillium is no easy feat). Their Trappist authentication lent interest and approval, but it didn’t automatically place Spencer on par with the likes of Chimay or La Trappe.
Closures can stem from a whole spectrum of issues, but it’s possible that one core problem for Spencer was an overreliance on their lineage without strong business practices and incredible brewing to back it up.
2) It designates quality
When I originally heard about monks who brewed beer, my mental picture was of people in brown robes using ancient brewing techniques. Although traditional garb is often still used, Trappist brewhouses are anything but ancient. They use modern technology, which, when paired with time and experience, has created incredible flavor and consistency.
Trappist beers aren’t flawless, but when many of the recipes have been perfected over decades or even centuries, the results are pretty damn close.
This is one reason you’ll be hard-pressed to find a beer nerd who doesn’t put at least one Trappist beer in their list of all-time favorites.
3) It’s rare
On top of the incredible quality, history, and consistency, Trappist beer is enticing because of its rarity.
Chimay, one of the larger Trappist producers, brewed 185,000 hl (116,000 bbl) in 2018. At first glance, it seems like a lot, but when compared with major commercial breweries (whose production numbers are in the millions of bbls), it starts looking like a small-batch operation. Even more staggering is when we dig into the smallest Trappist producers like Achel & Westvleteren. In 2018 they both produced less than 6,400 hl (5,400 bbl), which puts them in the Microbrewery range as defined by the Brewer’s Association.
In fact, until recently, in the case of Westvleteren, their beer was only acquirable onsite by non-commercial individuals. They’ve newly added a home delivery service, but the quantity available for purchase is still very limited. This practice ensures they hold true to their slogan, “We brew to live. We do not live to brew.”
Despite what this means for your chances of trying their beer anytime soon, it’s hard not to respect that ethos.
Final thoughts
Whether you’re a Trappist beer connoisseur or a newbie, hopefully, this post has provided you with additional context about the monastic brewing tradition.
Even if you typically avoid Belgian-style beers, consider snagging a bottle or two of a Trappist brew next time you’re at the bottle shop. Pair that beer with a homemade meal, say a word of thanks, and enjoy the delicious offerings in front of you.
Cheers!
*If you’re curious to learn more, look no further than the BJCP Style Guidelines.